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茶的典故
   
中國福建安溪鐵觀音茶葉的來歷

作者:    來源于:    發表時間:2010-05-05 0:00:00    閱讀:7303   [關 閉]

   安溪鐵觀音:屬烏龍茶之極品茶葉,產于福建省安溪縣堯陽鄉。采制工藝:每年分四次采摘,春茶在立夏,夏茶在夏至后,暑茶在大暑后,秋茶在白露前,春茶為最好。其成品茶外形條索卷曲,肥壯圓結,沉重勻整;色澤油亮,滋味醇厚甘鮮,素有茶中之王的美譽。飲之具有清心明目,防止動脈硬化,,降脂減肥之功效

   一是“魏說”相傳,清雍正三年(1725)年前后,西坪堯陽松林頭(今西坪鄉松巖村)老茶農魏蔭(1703-1775),勤于種茶,又信奉觀音,每日晨昏必在觀音佛前敬獻清茶一杯,數十年不輟。一夜,魏蔭在熟睡中夢見自己荷鋤出門,行至一溪澗邊,在石縫中發現一株茶樹,枝壯葉茂,芬芳誘人。魏蔭好生奇怪,正想探身采摘,突然傳來一陣狗吠聲,把一場好夢擾醒。翌晨,魏蔭循夢中途徑尋覓,果然在觀音侖打石坑的石隙間,發現一株如夢中所見的茶樹,細加觀察,葉形橢圓,葉肉肥厚,嫩芽紫紅,青翠欲滴,異于他種。他喜出望外,遂將茶樹移植在家中的一口破鐵鼎里,悉心培育,經數年壓枝繁殖,株株茁壯,葉葉油綠。便適時采制,果然茶質特異,香韻非凡,視為家珍,密藏罐中。每逢貴客佳賓臨門,沖泡品評,凡飲過此茶的人,均贊不絕口。一天,有位塾師飲了此茶,便驚奇地問“這是何好茶?”魏蔭便把夢中所遇和移植經過,詳告塾師,并說此茶是在崖石中發現,崖石威武似羅漢,移植后又種在鐵鼎中,想稱它“鐵羅漢”。塾師搖頭道:“有的羅漢猙獰可怖,好茶豈可俗稱。此茶乃觀音托夢所獲,還是稱‘鐵觀音’才雅!”魏蔭聽后,連聲叫好。

   二是“王說”。相傳,安溪西坪堯陽南巖(今西坪鄉南巖村)仕人王士讓,清雍正十年(1732)中副貢,乾隆十年(1745)出任湖廣(今湖北)黃州府蘄州通判,曾筑書房于南山之麓,名為“南軒”。清乾隆元年(1736)春,王與諸友經常會文于南軒,每于夕陽西墜,徘徊于南軒之旁。一日,見層石荒園間有株茶樹異于他種,遂移植南軒之圃,朝夕管理,精心培育,年年繁殖,枝葉茂盛,圓葉紅心;采制成品,烏潤肥壯,氣味超凡;泡飲之后,香馥味醇,沁人肺腑。乾隆六年,王奉召赴京,晉謁禮部侍郎方望溪,以此茶饋贈。方侍郎品其味非凡,便轉獻內廷。乾隆帝飲后,甚喜,召見士讓詢問堯陽茶史,以其茶烏潤結實,沉重“鐵”,味香形美,猶如“觀音”,賜名為“鐵觀音”。

   鐵觀音植株灌木型,中葉類,遲芽種。樹姿開張,枝條斜生,稀疏不齊;葉形橢圓,葉色濃綠,葉厚質脆,葉緣波狀,略向后翻,鋸齒疏鈍,嫩芽紫紅。開花多,結實率高。萌芽期在春分前后,停止生長期在霜降前后,一年生長期7個月。天性嬌弱,抗逆性較差,有"好喝不好栽"之說。制烏龍茶品質特優,滋味醇厚甘鮮,香氣清芳高雅,水色清澈金黃,葉底肥厚軟亮,常以天然的蘭花香和特殊的"觀音韻"而區別于其它烏龍茶。制紅.綠茶則品質中等。

   鐵觀音的制作工藝十分復雜,制成的茶葉條索緊結,色澤烏潤砂綠。好的鐵觀音,在制作過程中因咖啡堿隨水分蒸發還會凝成一層白霜;沖泡后,有天然的蘭花香,滋味純濃。用小巧的工夫茶具品飲,先聞香,后嘗味,頓覺滿口生香,回味無究。
清光緒二十二年(1896),安溪福美張乃妙、張乃乾兄弟將鐵觀音傳至臺灣木柵區。并先后傳到福建省的永春、南安、華安、平和、福安、崇安、莆田、仙游等縣和廣東等省。近年來,發現烏龍茶有健身美容的功效后,鐵觀音更風靡日本和東南亞。
安溪是福建省東南部靠近廈門的一個縣,是閩南烏龍茶的主產區,種茶歷史悠久,唐代已有茶葉出產。安溪境內雨量充沛,氣候溫和,適宜于茶樹的生長,而且經歷代茶人的辛勤勞動,選育繁殖了一系列茶樹良種,目前境內保存的良種有60多個,鐵觀音、黃旦、本山、毛蟹、大葉烏龍、梅占等都屬于全國知名良種。因此安溪有“茶樹良種寶庫”之稱。在眾多的茶樹良種中,品質最優秀、知名度最高的要數“鐵觀音”了。

   鐵觀音原產安溪縣西坪鎮,已有200多年的歷史,關于鐵觀音品種的由來,在安溪還留傳著這樣一個故事,相傳,清乾隆年間。安溪西坪上堯茶農魏飲制得一手好茶,他每日晨昏泡茶三杯供奉觀音菩薩,十年從不間斷,可見禮佛之誠。一夜,魏飲夢見在山崖上有一株透發蘭花香味的茶樹,正想采摘時,一陣狗吠把好夢驚醒。第二天果然在崖石上發現了一株與夢中一模一樣的茶樹。于是采下一些芽葉,帶回家中,精心制作。制成之后茶味甘醇鮮爽,精神為之一振。魏認為這是茶之王,就把這株茶挖回家進行繁殖。幾年之后,茶樹長得枝葉茂盛。因為此茶美如觀音重如鐵,又是觀音托夢所獲,就叫它“鐵觀音”。從此鐵觀音就名揚天下。鐵觀音是烏龍茶的極品,其品質特征是:茶條鄭曲,肥壯圓結,沉重勻整,色澤砂綠,整體形狀似蜻蜓頭、螺旋體、青蛙腿。沖泡后湯色多黃濃艷似琥珀,有天然馥郁的蘭花香,滋味醇厚甘鮮,回甘悠久,俗稱有“音韻”。茶音高而持久,可謂“七泡有余香”。

   安溪鐵觀音的由來
   鐵觀音TeiGuanYin原產福建省安溪縣。據《清水巖志》載:“清水高峰,出云吐霧,寺僧植茶,飽山嵐之氣,沐日月之精,得煙霞之靄,食之能療百病。老寮等屬人家,清香之味不及也。鬼空口有宋植二、三株其味尤香,其功益大,飲之不覺兩腋風生,倘遇陸羽,將以補茶話焉”,說明安溪唐代已產茶。到明代茶產稍盛,《安溪縣志》有“常樂、崇善等里貨(指茶)賣甚多”的記載。18世紀后期安溪茶戶有了較大發展。詩人阮 錫在《安溪茶歌》中有“安溪之山郁嵯峨,甚陰常濕生叢茶。居人清明采嫩葉,為價甚*保萬家……”之句。隨之茶區農民還選育出許多優良茶樹品種,其中以鐵觀音制茶品質為最優。

   鐵觀音TeiGuanYin原是茶樹品種名,由于它適制烏龍茶,其烏龍茶成品遂亦名為鐵觀音。所謂鐵觀音茶即以鐵觀音品種茶樹制成的烏龍茶。而在臺灣,鐵觀音茶則是指一種以鐵觀音茶特定制法制成的烏龍茶,所以臺灣鐵觀音茶的原料,可以是鐵觀音品種茶樹的芽葉,也可以不是鐵觀音品種茶樹的芽葉。這與福建鐵觀音茶的概念有所不同。

   安溪鐵觀音制作嚴謹,技藝精巧。一年分四季采制,谷雨至立夏(4月中下旬~5月上旬)為春茶,產量占全年總產量的45~50%;夏至至小暑(6月中下旬~7月上旬)為夏茶,產量占25~30%;立秋至處暑(8月上旬~8月下旬)為暑茶,產量占15~20%;秋分至寒露(9月下旬~10月上旬)為秋茶,產量占10~15%。制茶品質以春茶為最好。秋茶次之,其香氣特高,俗稱秋香,但湯味較薄。夏、暑茶品質較次。鮮葉采摘標準必須在嫩梢形成駐芽后,頂葉剛開展呈小開面或中開面時,采下二、三葉。采時要做到“五不”,即不折斷葉片,不折疊葉張,不碰碎葉尖,不帶單片,不帶魚葉和老梗。生長地帶不同的茶樹鮮葉要分開,特別是早青、午青、晚青要嚴格分開制造,以午青品質為最優。
安溪鐵觀音的制造工藝,要經過:涼青、曬青、涼青、做青、(搖青攤置)、炒青、揉捻、初焙、復焙、復包揉、文火慢烤、揀簸等工序才制成成品。

   優質鐵觀音茶條卷曲、壯結、沉重,呈青蒂綠腹蜻蜓頭狀。色澤鮮潤,砂綠顯,紅點明,葉表帶白霜,這是優質鐵觀音的重要特征之一。鐵觀音湯色金黃,濃艷清澈,葉底肥厚明亮,具綢面光澤。泡飲茶湯醇厚甘鮮,入口回甘帶蜜味;香氣馥郁持久,有“七泡有余香之譽”。近來國內外的試驗研究表明,安溪鐵觀音所含的香氣成分種類最為豐富,而且中、低沸點香氣組分所占比重明顯大于用其他品種茶樹鮮葉制成的烏龍茶。因而安溪鐵觀音獨特的香氣令人心怡神醉,一杯鐵觀音,杯蓋開啟立即芬芳撲鼻,滿室生香。生產出優質的鐵觀音茶必須具備:①純種鐵觀音品種茶樹;②茶樹生長在良好的土壤、氣候環境中,并得到精心培育;③精湛的采制技術。三者缺一不可。
鐵觀音TeiGuanYin的品飲,目前在福建泉州、廈門、漳州以及廣東潮汕一帶和臺灣,仍沿襲傳統的“功夫茶”品飲方式。使用陶制小壺、白瓷小盅(小杯),先用沸水燙熱,然后在壺中裝入相當于二分之一至三分之二壺容量的茶葉,沖以沸水,此時即有一股殊香撲鼻而來,正是“未嘗甘露味,先聞圣妙香”。1~2分種后將茶湯勻傾入小盅內,先嗅其香,繼嘗其味,淺斟細啜,確乃一種生活藝術享受。有朋自遠方來,饗以功夫茶,表示對客人的敬重,而品飲者亦以能嘗到一杯名貴的鐵觀音茶為快。

   鐵觀音茶問世以來,以其優異品質馳名遐邇。鐵觀音原產地堯陽鄉人在臺灣省、港澳地區以及越南、泰國、印尼、新加坡經營茶行多達130余家。1945年王聯丹莊的“泰山峰”牌鐵觀音在新加坡獲得一等獎金牌。1950年王炳記的“碧天峰”牌鐵觀音在暹羅(即泰國)獲得特等獎金。1982年被商業部評為國優產品,名列全國首位。同年國家經委授予安溪茶廠出品的“安溪鳳山牌特級鐵觀音”以金質獎章的最高榮譽。

   鐵觀音TeiGuanYin茶一向為閩、奧、臺灣茶客及海外僑胞所珍愛。此茶一經品嘗,輒難釋手,50年代以來,鐵觀音茶逐漸為華北人民所喜愛,現在則美名遍及全國各地,消費量在不斷增長。1979年、1984年日本市場兩度掀起“烏龍茶熱”,特別是福建鐵觀音,更以其迷人的香味,風靡日本各地。在日本,鐵觀音幾乎已成為烏龍茶的代名詞。 
   
  《神農本草經》記載“神農嘗百草日遇七十二毒得茶而解之。”“茶”最早出現于詩經,在《詩經•邶風•谷風》中有“誰謂茶苦?其甘如薺!”之句,此句一直沿用至中唐,“茶圣”陸羽撰寫《茶經》之后,茶的“地位”最終確立。茶,誰都品嘗,可是誰又能確切地把茶之味,茶之韻一一確認出來。一千人有一千人的感受,一萬人有一萬人的體驗,正如禪宗推崇的“拈花微笑,只可意會,不可言傳。”

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